Quantum gravity is the missing piece in our understanding of the fundamental
interactions today. Given recent observational breakthroughs in gravity,
providing a quantum theory for what lies beyond general relativity is more
urgent than ever. However, the complex history of quantum gravity and the
multitude of available approaches can make it difficult to get a grasp of the
topic and its main challenges and opportunities. We provide a guided tour of
quantum gravity in the form of 30 questions, aimed at a mixed audience of
learners and practitioners. The issues covered range from basic motivational
and background material to a critical assessment of the status quo and future
of the subject. The emphasis is on structural issues and our current
understanding of quantum gravity as a quantum field theory of dynamical
geometry beyond perturbation theory. We highlight the identification of quantum
observables and the development of effective numerical tools as critical to
future progress.